* peeled, seeded, and chopped, with juice ** or small shark steaks (1 1/2 pounds in all)

This is a loose interpretation of a favorite Roman dish. Palombo is the Italian name for a small shark related to leopard shark, typically cooked and served with peas. This recipe makes just enough sauce to moisten the fish; if you want to serve it over couscous, add another cup or so of tomato juice.

Combine the oil and onion in a large skillet and cook over medium heat just until the onion begins to color. Add the tomatoes, fresh peas, salt and pepper and cook until the tomatoes release their juice, about 5 minutes. (Wait to add thawed frozen peas until you add the shark.)

Season the shark pieces with a little more salt and pepper and lay them in among the vegetables. Cover and cook until the shark is tender, 6 to 8 minutes depending on thickness. Transfer the fish to warm plates, stir the mint into the skillet, correct the seasoning, and spoon the sauce and peas over and around the fish.

Per Serving: 395 calories, 41 g protein, 16 g carbohydrate, 18 g fat (3 g saturated), 87 mg cholesterol 492 mg sodium, 5 g fiber.

Jay Harlow in the San Francisco Chronicle, 9/3/93.