In a small bowl, combine the oregano, garlic and salt. Rub the seasonings on the chicken pieces.

In a large enameled cast iron casserole, cook the bacon over moderately low heat until the fat is rendered. Remove the bacon and reserve for another use. Add half the chicken and cook over moderately high heat, turning, until browned all over, about 7 minutes. Transfer to a plate and brown the remaining chicken to the pan and add the ham, tomatoes, onion and green pepper. Cover and simmer over low heat until the chicken is cooked through, about 25 minutes. Let cool.

Remover the chicken meant from the bones. Discard the skin and bones and return the meat to the pan. Add 6 1/2 cups of water and the capers and olives and simmer for 5 minutes. Stir in the rice and 1 teaspoon salt and simmer until the rice is tender, about 15 minutes.

Season the *asopao* with salt. Garnish with the peas and pimientos and sprinkle with the Parmesan. Serve at once; otherwise it will lose its characteristic soupiness.

This island's culinary heritage is a wonderful mix of Spanish, African,

Taino and more-all of which have a role in *asopao* de pollo*, a chicken

stew that's a country cousin of Spain's paella. Asapao can be as basic as

the rural "three can" variation, in which chicken and rice are fancied up

with a can of green peas, a can of pimientos and a can of asparagus tips,

or it can be a sublime dish that brings out the flavors of the freshest of

ingredients.