Substitutions: 1/3 cup heavy cream for 5 ounces of canned evaporated milk; cheddar or colby for jack.

Approximations: 5 to 6 zucchini; 1 medium onion; 1 large or 2 small tomatoes; 10-ounce bag of corn, or 16-ounce can. It is not necessary to be so precise. It is a home cooking, seasonal cooking.

Place diced zucchini in medium saucepan with water, season lightly with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and simmer, covered, over medium heat until slightly tender but still crunchy, about 2 minutes. Set aside without draining.

Heat oil in large skillet over high heat until hot but not quite smoking. Reduce heat slightly; add garlic and onion and cook, stirring, until onion is translucent, about 2 minutes. Stir in tomato and cook until liquid partly is evaporated, about 5 minutes. Stir in corn and poblanos and simmer 5 minutes.

Add undrained zucchinia and evaporated milk to corn-chili mixture and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, stir in diced or shredded cheese and cook until the cheese melts. Serve hot (from 4 to 6 people).

small squash? No. Rather, it is an affectionate name for a dish made from zucchini, corn and tomatoes - three vegetables now in season.

Say's Orlando Ramirez (Riv Pe culture reporter): "No two are alike." Arizona cooks add lots of cheese and milk. Others flavor it with cinnamon and mint. Other's add epazote, a Mexican herb like oregano, that is hard to find stateside. "Agreement: it's a vegetable stew. Team it with warmed tortillas and ice tea for a complete meal."