Heat a dry comal or flat iron griddle over moderately low heat until hot and pan-roast tomatoes and habaneros, turning them occasionally to ensure even roasting, until browned and soft throughout, 25 to 30 minutes. Discard tomato stems and wearing rubber gloves, stem and seed chiles. In a blender pur?e tomatoes, chiles, water, and salt until smooth. (Salsa may be made 10 hours ahead and chilled, covered. Bring salsa to room temperature before serving.) Makes about 1 cup. La Parilla: The Mexican Grill Reed Hearon

of kmeade@ids2.idsonline. Com (The Meades))

complex, citrusy aroma and flavor. This salsa from the Yucatan is a classic accompaniment to meat and seafood cooked in an achiote recado ­ a= brick-red paste made with achiote, or annatto, seeds. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. *Available at Mexican markets, specialty produce markets, and some= supermarkets.