Think of these sweet, glazed strips of roast pork as the ham of Asia. Both Chinese and Southeast Asian cooks serve cha siu as a main dish, or as a meat addition or a delicious garnish in many stir-fry mixtures, soups, noodle dishes and fried rice. Most Chinese cooks purchase their cha siu already prepared at a roasting shop (delicatessen). However, it is very easy to make at home, and the results are not as garishly red as some commercial versions made with food coloring.

Remove and discard the excess fat from the pork. Cut pork lengthwise (with the grain) into 2-inch wide strips 5 to 6 inches long. Put into a large bowl.

Combine soy sauces, sugar, honey, hoisin, ginger, wine and salt. Pour over meat and rub it in well. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator at least overnight or for up to 3 days, turning several times.

Preheat the oven to 350F.

Place the pork strips on a broiler pan lined with foil. Roast for 30 minutes, turning once halfway through. Increase the heat to 425F and roast for 10 minutes longer. Let cool before slicing.

To serve, cut across the grain into 1/4-inch thick slices. Serve with mustard and sesame seeds for dipping.

Mustard Dip:

Mix together 2 tablespoons Colman's mustard, 2 tablespoons water, pinch of salt, pinch of sugar and a few drops of oil.

Joyce Jue, San Francisco Chronicle, 1/8/92.