Deep-fried squid is one of the most popular seafood dishes in the world. It is made in almost every country where squid is eaten. Once you taste it, you'll see why. The rings emerge juicy, sweet and crisp.

Served with several dipping sauces, this dish makes an excellent hors d'oeuvre or main course. This recipe calls for a dry coating. Wet coatings, such as tempura batter, are delicious, too, though they are a little more trouble to apply.

Dry the rings thoroughly with paper towels. Coat with flour, to which salt and pepper have been added.

Heat oil to 350F in a deep-fat fryer or heavy casserole. If you don't have a temperature control or thermometer, you can guess at the temperature by dropping a few drops of water into the oil. It should sizzle immediately on contact. Plunge basket laden with one layer of squid into oil which should bubble vigorously on contact. If you don't have a basket for deep frying, use a large spoon or tongs to immerse squid in oil, and to remove. Fry until coating turns golden brown, about 3 or 4 minutes.

Remove squid and drain. Turn down heat to moderate until just before you are ready to cook the next batch; oil will overheat when the fryer is empty. Remove excess oil from squid with paper towels.

Serve rings hot with any of the dipping sauces described below or with lemon wedges. Cole slaw is a natural with deep fried squid.